British kitchen with under cabinets colourful WLED lighting

WLED Under-Cabinet Kitchen Lighting: A Complete DIY Installation Guide

The Problem with Most Under-Cabinet Lighting

High-end kitchens always look better at night, and it is rarely the main lights.

It is the subtle glow under the cabinets — the light that makes countertops look clean, prep areas usable, and the whole room feel intentional.

The problem? Most under-cabinet lighting guides push expensive commercial kits with proprietary controllers, limited colour options, and app-only controls. A DIY approach using a pre-flashed WLED controller gives you better results, more flexibility, and full local control — often at a lower cost.

And you can install it in an afternoon.

Related: New to WLED? Start with our Beginner's Guide to WLED before continuing.

Why Under-Cabinet Lighting Matters

Task lighting under your wall cabinets serves two purposes:

  1. Utility: You can see what you are chopping without casting a shadow on your own hands — the number one problem with overhead lights in kitchens.
  2. Atmosphere: A warm glow under the cabinets at night transforms the room. It is the difference between a kitchen that feels like a showroom and one that feels like yours.

Most people only solve the first problem. WLED solves both, adding features like dynamic colour, sound-reactive effects for gatherings, and smart home integration that no commercial strip kit matches.

The key advantage over fixed-colour LED strips is RGBW addressable LEDs — warm white for everyday cooking, cool neutral white for focused food prep, and full RGB for parties or seasonal themes, all from the same strip.

What You Will Need

The Controller

Under-cabinet lighting rarely needs more than one or two zones (left of hob, right of hob, or separate runs for different cabinet sections), but multi-output controllers add flexibility that a single channel cannot match.

  • Our top pick: The Gledopto 4-Output WLED Controller is ideal for kitchen installations. Its four independent outputs let you run separate zones for prep areas, sink, breakfast bar, and accent lighting — all from one controller. Compact enough to hide above the cabinets, and ships with WLED pre-installed.
  • Waterproof alternative: For kitchens prone to steam, condensation, or splashes (near a hob or sink), the Gledopto Waterproof WLED Controller offers IP-rated protection in a sealed enclosure — ideal for peace of mind in moisture-prone installations.
  • Budget alternative: If you only need two zones, the 2-Output WLED Controller handles left/right cabinet runs without the extra channels you may never use.

All controllers ship with WLED pre-installed — no flashing or coding required.

Related: Not sure which controller fits your setup? See our Find Your Perfect WLED Controller guide.

The LED Strip

Under-cabinet lighting typically uses 5V or 12V addressable RGBW strips. The dedicated white channel matters here — you will use white 90% of the time in a kitchen.

Factor Recommendation
Voltage 5V for runs under 3m; 12V for longer kitchen runs
Density 60 LEDs/m for a clean, continuous line of light with no visible hotspots
LED type SK6812 RGBW — available in warm, neutral or cool white variants alongside RGB
Width 8mm or 10mm strips fit standard aluminium profiles

The Aluminium Profile (Do Not Skip This)

A bare LED strip under a cabinet looks unfinished. An aluminium profile with a frosted diffuser turns it into what appears to be a bespoke lighting fixture.

Profiles cost a few pounds per metre and are the single biggest visual upgrade you can make. They also help dissipate heat from the strip, which matters in a kitchen environment above a warm hob.

The Power Supply

Under-cabinet runs are relatively short, so power requirements are modest. Instead of relying on generic amperage figures (which vary between LED strip manufacturers), use this approach:

1. Check your strip's specs. A standard 5V SK6812 RGBW strip draws roughly 30–60mA per LED at full brightness — look up the exact figure in the datasheet supplied with your strip.

2. Calculate the maximum. Multiply per-LED current draw by your total LED count. For example, 60 LEDs/m × 2 metres × 50mA per LED = 6A theoretical maximum at full white. This is the worst case — in practice, kitchen lighting rarely runs at 100% brightness on all channels.

3. Oversize the PSU. Choose a power supply rated at least 20% above your calculated maximum. Extra headroom means the PSU runs cooler and lasts longer.

4. Use WLED's safety net. Go to Config → LED Preferences and enable the automatic brightness limiter. Set it just below your PSU's rated current. This guarantees the strip can never exceed what the PSU can deliver — even if your maths is off.

With the limiter enabled, you can confidently use any suitably rated power supply knowing the controller will protect both itself and the strip.

Caution: Always match your power supply voltage to your LED strip. A 12V supply connected to a 5V strip will destroy both the LEDs and the controller. If you are using a 5V strip, you must use a 5V power supply.

Voltage drop (the 5V trade-off): 5V SK6812 strips suffer noticeably from voltage drop over distance. For continuous runs longer than 3 metres powered from one end, the far end will appear dim and yellow. Either inject power at the midpoint or end of the strip, upgrade to a 12V system for longer kitchen runs, or use a 2-output controller to split the load into two shorter, centrally powered sections.

Connectors & Wiring

  • JST connectors make installation modular — you can disconnect the strip from the controller if you ever need to remove a cabinet
  • 18–20 AWG wire is adequate for 5V or 12V runs under 5m
  • Wago-style lever connectors or screw terminals for joining wires — no soldering required. Note that Wago connectors are too bulky to fit inside most slim aluminium profiles — join wires above the cabinets or behind the cabinet lip
  • Inline fuse (5A or 10A) between the power supply and controller — inexpensive and essential for safety

Step-by-Step Installation

Step 1 — Measure and Cut

Measure each section of cabinet where you want lighting. Standard UK wall cabinets are 300–400mm deep, so you are looking at roughly that depth per section.

Cut your LED strip only at the marked copper cut pads. 5V SK6812 strips can be cut at every single LED, giving you maximum flexibility to match exact cabinet widths. 12V addressable strips (such as WS2811) are typically cut every 3 LEDs. Test each section before permanent mounting — it is far easier to identify a faulty connection on the worktop than after installation.

Step 2 — Mount the Profiles

  1. Clean the underside of each cabinet with isopropyl alcohol
  2. Peel the double-sided tape on the aluminium profile and press firmly
  3. Snap the LED strip inside the profile
  4. Attach the frosted diffuser cover

If your cabinets already have a recessed channel underneath, the profile clips straight in. If not, stick the profile to the flat underside.

Positioning tip: Run the profile flush with the front edge of the cabinet, not the back. Light directed at the splashback creates a better effect than light that drops straight down onto the worktop.

Step 3 — Hide the Controller and PSU

The gap above your wall cabinets (between the cabinet top and the ceiling) is the ideal hiding place for the controller and power supply. Most UK wall cabinets sit 2–5cm below the ceiling, providing enough space for a compact controller and slim PSU.

For a clean installation:

  1. Mount the controller in the gap above the cabinets
  2. Run the LED strip tails up through a small hole drilled in the top panel of the cabinet — hidden from view below
  3. Connect the controller to the power supply in the same void
  4. Secure all wiring with cable clips to prevent sagging

If wiring into a mains circuit rather than using a plug socket, this work must be carried out by a qualified electrician under UK Building Regulations (in Scotland, equivalent rules apply under the Building Standards system rather than Part P).

Ventilation note: Power supplies generate heat. Ensure the space above your cabinets has some airflow. Do not wrap the PSU in insulation or seal it in an airtight enclosure.

Step 4 — Configure WLED

  1. Power on the controller — it creates a Wi-Fi access point called WLED-AP (default password: wled1234)
  2. Connect your phone to it and open http://4.3.2.1 in your browser
  3. Go to Config → WiFi Setup and enter your home Wi-Fi credentials
  4. The controller reboots and joins your network — note its new IP address
  5. In Config → LED Preferences, set the LED type to SK6812 RGBW and enter the total LED count

Step 5 — Set Up Presets

Kitchen lighting is all about presets — you do not want to open an app while handling raw chicken:

  • Preset 1 — Prep mode: Around 4000K (neutral/natural white), 80% brightness. Food prep and cooking.
  • Preset 2 — Evening mode: Warm white (~2700K), 40% brightness. Soft ambient light for dining or relaxing.
  • Preset 3 — Entertaining: Full colour, dynamic effects. When cooking turns into a gathering.
  • Preset 4 — Night light: 5% warm white — or a dim, deep orange/red hue for better night-vision preservation during late-night trips to the kitchen.

You can trigger presets from the WLED app, a wireless switch mounted underneath a cabinet or on a nearby wall, or voice commands via Home Assistant.

Related: Set up automated preset switching with our WLED and Home Assistant integration guide.

Smart Home Integration

Under-cabinet lighting becomes genuinely useful when it is automated. Here is a setup that works well in a typical UK kitchen:

  • Motion sensor under the cabinet — turns the strip on at 10% warm white when you walk in at 3am for water (see our WLED motion sensor automation guide)
  • Door sensor on a cabinet — activates the strip at 100% neutral white when you open a specific cupboard (useful for a pantry or spice cabinet)
  • Sunset automation — fades the strip from neutral prep white to warm evening light automatically at dusk
  • Voice control — "Hey Google, set kitchen lights to prep mode" via Home Assistant

WLED auto-discovers in Home Assistant, so no complex YAML or MQTT configuration is required for basic integration.

A Real UK Kitchen Example

Consider a typical galley kitchen in a Victorian terrace: 3m of wall cabinets split either side of a gas hob, with a small breakfast bar at one end.

A single Gledopto 4-Output WLED Controller mounted in the gap above the cabinets drives four 1.5m sections of SK6812 RGBW strip in aluminium profiles — two sections for the main cabinets either side of the hob, one for the breakfast bar, and one spare output for future plinth lighting. A suitably rated 5V power supply (sized using the method above) handles all sections with headroom to spare. A Zigbee motion sensor tucked under the corner cabinet triggers a 10% warm white preset between 11pm and 6am via Home Assistant.

Total cost: approximately £45–£55. Comparable commercial kits with fewer features start at £60–£80.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping the diffuser channel. Bare LED strip under a cabinet looks unfinished. The aluminium profile with frosted diffuser makes the installation look built-in.
  • Wrong colour temperature for the task. Around 4000K (neutral/natural white) is best for food preparation; warm white (~2700K) is ideal for ambient evening use. A single-colour white strip locks you into one or the other. RGBW strips give you both.
  • Mounting the strip too far back. Light aimed at the splashback creates a cleaner spread than light pointing straight down. Run the profile near the front edge of the cabinet.
  • No physical switch. Do not rely solely on phone control. A small wireless switch (£10–£15) mounted underneath a cabinet or on a nearby wall is far more practical day-to-day.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use WLED under-cabinet lighting without a smart home system?

Yes. WLED works independently through its own app or web interface. Smart home integration is optional and can be added later.

Is it safe to install LED strips above a hob?

Addressable LED strips run on low-voltage DC (5V–24V) and present minimal electrical risk when correctly installed. However, keep the strip and profile at least 15cm from the hob edge to avoid heat and steam exposure. Do not run wiring directly above gas burners.

Do I need an electrician for under-cabinet lighting?

Not if you use a standard plug-in power supply connected to an existing socket. Hardwiring into a mains circuit or installing a new switched fused spur must be done by a qualified electrician to comply with UK Building Regulations (Building Standards in Scotland).

Can I extend the system later?

Yes. WLED makes it straightforward to add more cabinets, expand to plinth lighting, or sync with other rooms using UDP. You are never locked into the initial installation.

Ready to Build?

Everything you need is available at zelco.co.uk:

Got a tricky kitchen layout? Drop a comment below or tag us in your install photos — we enjoy seeing these come together.

Found this helpful? Save it to your kitchen renovation board or share it with someone planning a remodel.

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